I never thought I wanted to surf.
When TM gave me a voucher for four surf lessons for my 40th birthday, I kept it in a book for 364 days.
On day 365, when it was due to expire, I was overcome by guilt.
I phoned SurfEmporium in Muizenberg and asked whether I could have all four lessons in one go. (To get it over and done with.)
I could not. However, they would be happy to extend my voucher in order for me to take my lessons over the next four Fridays. Damn it.
But Sea water must be addictive. Because I drank gallons of it that first lesson (and still do!) and I keep going back for more.
Two months later, I bought my 243.83-Centimetres-Long-Surfboard ( See Day#1 ).
And we have been inseparable ever since.
Because you see, I only learned to swim the week before I started surfing. (What can I say, I grew up in the Free State – in a draught.)
I use the term ‘swim’ loosely. I gave up before the term ‘swimmer’ would apply to me.
Firstly, because I felt sorry for Daniel, my swimming instructor. Teaching me was like ’50 First Dates’.
“Chenél, can you please put your face in the water?” “No.”
And secondly, because the toddlers in the class were mean to me.
Which is why I have the Strongest Leash Available To (Wo)Mankind. It does not let go. Ever.
Because I can not swim (properly). Not because the toddlers were mean to me.
And this is part of the reason I now have a crease where I do not want a crease.
In the middle of my beloved 243.83-Centimetres-Long-Surfboard. 🙁
When Mr Bright said that “Good Swell was arriving in Kokrobite on Saturday” he meant “Good Swell was arriving in Kokrobite on Saturday”.
Good Swell tried to get between me and my beloved 243.83-Centimetres-Long-Surfboard.
But my Strongest-Leash-Available-To-(Wo)Mankind-That-Does-Not-Let-Go-Ever, did not let go.
Good Swell creased my beloved 243.83-Centimetres-Long-Surfboard.
But Mr Bright promised to fix my beloved 243.83-Centimetres-Long-Surfboard.
And I promised to call my first child Brett.